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Fender® Basses -- Adjustments and Care |
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The following setup procedures
and specifications for your Fender bass were derived using the strings, which
come on the instruments as standard equipment from the factory. Note: If
you plan to change string gauges, you may need to adjust the specs somewhat
to compensate for the changes in string sizes. Modifications of the
specifications may also be made, (within limited parameters) to adjust for
your individual playing style or application (i.e., how hard you pick, finger,
slap, pop, or fret the bass) Note: These are minimum
specifications, which are meant to guide you, and should not to be taken as
hard and fast rules, as we realize that every player's subjective
requirements may differ somewhat. Necessary Tools - Set of
automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025) - 6"
ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments) - Light
machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil) - Phillips
screwdriver - Electronic
tuner - Wire cutters
- Peg winder - Polish and
cloth Strings New bass strings can breathe
new life into your bass. A lot of the thump and pop you expect from your bass
starts right here. In order for strings to stay in tune well, they should be
changed on a regular basis. Strings that have lost their integrity (worn where
the string is pressed against the fret) or have become oxidized, rusty, and
dirty will not return to pitch properly. To check if your strings need
changing, run a finger underneath the string and feel for dirt, rust or flat
spots. If you find any of these, you should change your strings. Fender offers a variety of
bass strings -- from the smooth, vintage sounding, pure nickel Original Bass
7150's, the pumpin' response of the Super Bass 7250's, to the bright, snappy
performance of the Stainless Steel 7350's. There are choices of long scale,
medium scale, or short scale; strings that are taperwound, and strings that
are designed for either top loading or a string-through-the-body bridge
designs. Whatever your need -- to fit your bass -- these strings will give
you the jump-start you need. Because of the amount of
tension prevalent on the neck, it is advisable to replace and tune each new
string before removing the next string. After the whole set is changed and
tuned; make sure that you stretch your strings properly. This is done by
holding the strings at the first fret and hooking your fingers under each
string (one at a time) and then tugging lightly, moving your hand from the
bridge to the neck. Re-tune and repeat this procedure several times. Tuning Keys Whether your bass has standard
or vintage tuning keys; how you wind the strings onto the pegs is very
important. First start by loading each string through the bridge and then
loading it onto the appropriate key as follows: Standard keys - You will want to pre-cut each string
to achieve the proper length and the desired amount of winds. Pull the 4th
string 3" past the 4th string tuning post and cut it (make sure when you
are pulling the strings that you are pulling the string taut). Insert through
the eyelet in the tuning key, allowing approximately 1/16" of the end to
extend through the eyelet, then wind neatly in a downward pattern (carefully
as to prevent overlapping of the strings). Pull the 3rd string 3 1//2"
past the 3rd string tuning post and cut it. Now, repeat the winding
procedure. Pull the 2nd string 3 1/2" past the 2nd string tuning post
and cut it. Again, repeat the winding procedure. Pull the 1st string 3 1/2"
past the 1st string tuning post and cut it. Finally, repeat the winding
procedure one more time. Note: For 5-string basses follow the above
procedures, cutting the 5th string 3" past the 5th tuning post. Vintage keys - You will want to pre-cut each string
to achieve the proper length and the desired amount of winds. Pull the 4th
string 4" past the 4th string tuning post and cut it (make sure when you
are pulling the strings that you are pulling the string taut). Insert into
the center hole of the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90° angle, and wind
neatly in a downward pattern (carefully as to prevent overlapping of the
strings). Pull the 3rd string 4 1/2" past the 3rd string tuning post and
cut it. Now, repeat the winding procedure. Pull the 2nd string 4 1/2"
past the 2nd string tuning post and cut it. Again, repeat the winding
procedure. Pull the 1st string 4 1/2" past the 1st string tuning post
and cut it. Finally, repeat the winding procedure one more time. Note: For
5-string basses follow the above procedure cutting the 5th string 3 1/2"
past the 5th tuning post. Intonation (Roughing it
out) You can pre-set the basic
intonation of your bass by taking your tape measure and measuring from the
inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret (the wire, not the
fingerboard). Double that measurement to find the scale length of your
bass. Adjust the 1st string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring
from the inside of the nut to the center of the bridge saddle. Now, adjust
the distance of the 2nd saddle back from the 1st saddle, using the gauge of
the 2nd string as a measurement (Example: If the 2nd string is .060"
you would move the 2nd string back .060" from the 1st saddle). Move
the 3rd back from the 2nd saddle, using the gauge of the 3rd string as a
measurement. The 4th in the same method (and 5th if you have a 5-string bass).
Note: If you are using taperwound 4th string (and 5th if you have a
5-string bass) use the actual gauge of the string for your measurement-not
the dimension of the tapered portion of the string. Truss-Rod Check your tuning. Install a
capo at the 1st fret, depress the 4th string at the last fret. With a feeler
gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th
fret -- see the specification chart below for the proper gap. Caution: Because
of the amount of string tension placed on the neck (some basses also feature
graphite reinforced necks, adding to the resistance present while the bass is
tuned to pitch), it is advisable to loosen the strings prior to making any
actual adjustment. After the adjustment is made retune the strings to pitch
and recheck the gap with the feeler gauge. Adjustment At Headstock
(Allen wrench): If
neck is too concave, (with the guitar in playing position, looking up the
neck towards the keys) turn Truss-Rod nut counter clock-wise. Too convex--
clockwise. Adjustment At Neck Joint
(Phillips screwdriver or Allen wrench): If neck is too concave, turn Truss-Rod nut clock-wise.
Too convex--Counter clockwise. Check your tuning, then check the gap with the
feeler gauge. Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance
or need for adjustment, or you're not comfortable with this adjustment, take
your bass to your authorized Fender Service Center.
Action Players with a light touch can
get away with lower action, others need higher action to avoid rattles. Check
tuning. Using the 6" ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings
and top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to
the chart, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound
and feel is achieved.
Shimming/Micro-Tilt
Adjustment Shimming is a procedure used
to adjust the pitch of the neck in relation to the body. A shim is placed in
the neck pocket, underneath the butt-end of the neck. On a few basses, a
Micro-Tilt® adjustment is offered. It replaces the need for a shim by using a
hex screw against a plate installed in the butt-end of the neck. The need to
adjust the pitch (raising the butt-end of the neck in the pocket, thereby
pitching the neck back) of the neck occurs in situations where the string
height is high and the action adjustment is as low as the adjustment will
allow. To properly shim a neck, the
neck needs to be removed from the neck pocket of the body. A shim
approximately 1/4" wide x 1 3/4" long x .010" thick will raise
the action approximately 1/32". For those basses with the Micro-Tilt
adjustment, loosen the two neck screws on both sides of the adjustment access
hole on the neckplate by at least 4 full turns. Tighten the hex screw with an
1/8" hex wrench approximately 1/4 turn to raise the action approximately
1/32". Retighten the neck screws when the adjustment is complete. The
pitch of the neck on your bass has been preset at the factory and in most
cases will not need to be adjusted. Note: If you feel you need this
adjustment to be made and you're not comfortable with the procedure, take
your bass to your authorized Fender Service Center. Pickups Setting pickups too high can
cause a number of unusual occurrences. Depress strings at last fret. Using
6" ruler, measure the distance from the bottom of the 1st and 4th
strings to top of the pole piece. Rule of thumb--distance should be greatest
at the 4th string neck pickup and closest at the 1st string bridge position.
Follow the measurement guidelines from the chart as starting points. The
distance will vary according to the amount of magnetic pull of the pickup. Note:
Larger gauges of strings need wider vibrational allowances. If you have a
5-string bass or are using a heavier gauge of string, your measurements will
need to be increased accordingly.
Intonation (Fine Tuning) Additional Hints |