Stratocaster® -- Adjustment and Care |
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The following setup procedures
and specifications for your Stratocaster were derived using the strings,
which come on the instruments as standard equipment from the factory. If you
plan to change string gauges, you may need to adjust the specs somewhat to
compensate for the changes in string sizes. Modifications of the
specifications may also be made, (within limited parameters) to adjust for
your individual playing style or application (i.e., how hard you pick, strum,
or fret the guitar) Note: These are minimum specifications, which
are meant to guide you, and should not to be taken as hard and fast rules, as
we realize that every player's subjective requirements may differ somewhat. Necessary Tools - Set of
automotive feeler gauges (.002 - .025) - 6"
ruler (with 1/32" and 1/64" increments) - Light
machine oil (3-in-1, toy locomotive, or gun oil) - Phillips
screwdriver - Electronic
tuner - Wire cutters
- Peg winder - Polish and
cloth Strings Lets start with strings.
First, in order for strings to stay in tune well, they should be changed on a
regular basis. Strings that have lost their integrity (worn where the string
is pressed against the fret) or have become oxidized, rusty, and dirty will
not return to pitch properly. To check if your strings need changing, run a
finger underneath the string and feel for dirt, rust or flat spots. If you
find any of these, you should change your strings. No matter what gauge of
strings you use or whether they're pure nickel, nickel-plated steel, or
stainless steel; for the best tuning stability we recommend you use Fender®
Bullet® strings. The patented bullet-end is specifically designed for all
styles of tremolo use, from extreme dives to smooth vibrato passages. The
design allows the string to travel freely in the bridge block channel during
tremolo use and return afterwards to its original position, seated snugly in
the bridge block. This is accomplished by eliminating the extra string wrap,
and the ball-end (the ball-end doesn't fit properly into the string channel).
The bullet-end has been shaped and sized to match the design of the bridge
block channel. Make sure and stretch your
strings properly. After you have installed a new set and have them tuned to
pitch, hold the strings at the first fret and hook your fingers under each
string (one at a time) and tug lightly, moving your hand from the bridge to
the neck. Re-tune and repeat several times. Tuning Keys Whether you are using locking,
standard, or vintage tuning keys; how you wind the strings onto the pegs is
very important. First start by loading all the strings through the bridge and
then loading them onto the keys as follows: Locking tuning keys - Imagine the headcap of the neck is
the face of a clock, with the top being at 12 o'clock and the nut at 6
o'clock. Line the six tuning machines so that the 1st string keyhole is set
at 1 o'clock, the 2nd at 2 o'clock, the 3rd and 4th at 3 o'clock, the 5th at
4 o'clock, and the 6th at 5 o'clock. Pull the strings through taut, and
tighten the thumb wheel locking the string in. Now tune to pitch. Standard keys - In order to reduce string slippage
at the tuning key, we recommend that you use a tie technique. This is
accomplished by pulling the string through the keyhole, and pulling the
string clockwise underneath itself and bringing it back over the top of
itself; creating a knot. You will need to leave a bit of slack for the 1st
string, so you have at least 2 to 3 winds around the post. As you progress
down the line to the 6th string you will reduce the amount of slack and the
amount of winds around the keys. Vintage keys - For these keys you will want to
pre-cut the strings to achieve the proper length and the desired amount of
winds. Pull the 6th string to the 4th key and cut it (make sure when you are
pulling the strings that you are pulling the string taut). Pull the 5th
string to the 3rd key and cut it. Pull the 4th string between the 2nd and 1st
keys and cut it. Pull the 3rd string just about to the top of the headcap and
cut it. Pull the 2nd string about a 1/2" past the headcap and cut it.
Finally pull the 1st string 1 1/2" past the top of the headcap and cut
it. Insert into the center hole in the tuning key, bend and crimp to a 90°
angle, and wind neatly in a downward pattern (carefully as to prevent
overlapping of the strings). If your tuning keys have a
screw on the end of the button, check the tightness of the screw. This
controls the tension of the gears inside the tuning keys. DO NOT over-tighten
these screws. They should be tightened to "finger-tight." This is
very important especially on locking tuners. Tremolo Stratocasters can be found
with four distinctive types of bridges. The most well known bridge is the
vintage style "synchronized" tremolo. The other three are the
American Standard bridge, which is a modern-day two-pivot bridge, the
non-tremolo hardtail bridge, and the locking tremolo such as the American
Deluxe or Floyd Rose® locking tremolos. If you have a non-tremolo
"hardtail" bridge, proceed to Intonation (Roughing it out). If you
have a locking tremolo bridge click here. First, remove the tremolo back
cover. Check your tuning. Let’s start with a vintage style tremolo bridge.
Here’s a great tip to enhance the performance of this bridge: Using your
tremolo arm, pull the bridge back flush with the body. Loosen all six screws
located at the front edge of the bridge plate. Raise them so that all of the
screws measure approximately 1/16" above the top of the bridge plate.
Finally, tighten the two outside screws back down until they are flush with
the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws,
leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability. For a two-pivot
bridge like the American Standard bridge use your tremolo arm to pull the
bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point
where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the
front or back of the plate). Allowing the bridge to float
freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo
cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle (Fender spec. is 1/8"
gap at rear of bridge). You will need to retune periodically to get the right
balance between the strings and the springs. If you prefer a flush bridge to
body, adjust spring tension to equal string tension, while the bridge rests
on body (you may want to put an extra 1/2 turn to each claw screw to ensure
that the bridge remains flush to the body during string bends). Caution: Do
not over-tighten the springs as it can put unnecessary tension on the arm
during tremolo use. Finally, you may wish to apply a small dab of Chapstick®
or Vaseline® at the pivot contact points of the bridge for a very smooth
operation. Intonation (Roughing it
out) You can pre-set the basic
intonation of your guitar, by taking your tape measure and measuring from the
inside of the nut to the center of the 12th fret (the wire, not the
fingerboard). Double that measurement to find the scale length of your
guitar. Adjust the 1st string bridge saddle to this scale length, measuring
from the inside of the nut to the center of the bridge saddle. Now, adjust
the distance of the 2nd string saddle back from the 1st saddle, using the
gauge of the 2nd string as a measurement (Example: If the 2nd string
is .011" you would move the 2nd string back .011" from the 1st
saddle). Move the 3rd back from the 2nd saddle, using the gauge of the 3rd
string as a measurement. The 4th string saddle should be set parallel with
the 2nd string saddle. Proceed with the 5th and 6th in the same method used
for strings 2, and 3. Lubrication and String
Breakage Lubricating all of the contact
points of a string's travel may be one of the most important elements in
ensuring tuning stability during tremolo use, and in reducing string
breakage. First, let us explain some of the most common causes for string
breakage. The first and foremost contributor to this happening is moisture
collection at the point of contact on the bridge saddle. This can be
attributed to the moisture and acidity that transfers from your hands or can
be a direct effect of humidity in the air. Another factor is metal-to-metal
friction and fatigue. The differences in the metal components, over a period
of time, react to each other and help breakdown the integrity of the strings.
The stronger metal will always attack a softer metal (this is why a stainless-steel
string will wear a groove or burr in a vintage-style saddle). Finally, you
will also find that different string brands will break at different points of
tension, due to the metal make-up and string manufacturing techniques. Since
we manufacture our own strings, we are able to design and make our strings
perform well during extreme tremolo techniques. Now, one of the best ways to
reduce string breakage is to lubricate the string/saddle contact point with
a light machine oil (we prefer 3-in-1 oil, because it contains anti-rust and
anti-corrosive properties) every time you change your strings. The oil acts
as an insulator against the moisture, and reduces the friction and metal
fatigue. Another point of contact that
should be lubricated is... the string tree(s). For this point, a small amount
of Chapstick, applied with a toothpick, works wonders. Truss Rod There are two different styles
of truss rods found on Fender guitars and basses; the "Standard"
truss rod, and the "Bi-flex" truss rod. Most Fender guitars and
basses are equipped with a "Standard" truss rod (there are two
types of "Standard" truss rod; one which adjusts at the heel of the
neck, and one which adjusts at the headstock, but both operate on the same
principle). The "Standard" truss rod can counteract concave
curvature, for example: in a neck that has too much relief, by generating a
force in the neck opposite to that caused by excessive string tension. Fender also uses a unique
"Bi-Flex" truss rod system on some instruments. Unlike the "Standard"
truss rods, which can only correct a neck that is too concave (under-bowed),
the "Bi-Flex" truss rod can compensate for either concave
(under-bowed), or convex (over-bowed) curvature, by generating a force in
either direction as needed for the correction. Check your tuning. Install a
capo at the 1st fret, depress the 6th string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the
gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret -- see the
specification chart below for the proper gap. Adjustment at headstock
(Allen wrench): If neck is too concave, (the guitar
in playing position, looking up the neck towards the keys) turn truss rod nut
counter clock-wise. Too convex-- clockwise. Adjustment at neck joint
(Phillips screwdriver):
If neck is too concave, turn truss rod nut clock-wise. Too convex--Counter
clockwise. Check your tuning, then check
the gap again with the feeler gauge. Note: In either case, if
you meet excessive resistance or need for adjustment, or you're not
comfortable with this adjustment, take your guitar to your authorized Fender Service
Center.
Action Players with a light touch can
get away with lower action, others need higher action to avoid rattles. Check
tuning. Using 6" ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and
top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to the
chart, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound and
feel is achieved. Note: For locking tremolo systems the individual
string height is preset. Use the two pivot adjustment screws to achieve the
desired overall string height.
Shimming/Micro-Tilt™
Adjustment Shimming is a procedure used
to adjust the pitch of the neck in relation to the body. A shim is placed in
the neck pocket, underneath the butt-end of the neck. On many of the American
series guitars, a Micro-Tilt adjustment is offered. It replaces the need for
a shim by using a hex screw against a plate installed in the butt-end of the
neck. The need to adjust the pitch (raising the butt-end of the neck in the
pocket, thereby pitching the neck back) of the neck occurs in situations
where the string height is high and the action adjustment is as low as the
adjustment will allow. To properly shim a neck the
neck needs to be removed from the neck pocket of the body. A shim
approximately 1/4" wide x 1 3/4" long x .010" thick will raise
the action approximately 1/32". For those guitars with the Micro-Tilt
adjustment, loosen the two neck screws on both sides of the adjustment access
hole on the neckplate by at least 4 full turns. Tighten the hex screw with an
1/8" hex wrench approximately 1/4 turn to raise the action approximately
1/32". Retighten the neck screws when the adjustment is complete. The
pitch of the neck on your guitar has been preset at the factory and in most
cases will not need to be adjusted. Note: If you feel you need this
adjustment to be made and you're not comfortable with the procedure, take
your guitar to your authorized Fender Service Center. Pickups Set too high, pickups can
cause a myriad of inexplicable phenomena. Depress all of the strings at the
last fret. Using 6" ruler, measure the distance from the bottom of the
1st and 6th strings to top of the pole piece. Rule of thumb-the distance
should be greatest at the 6th string - neck pickup position, and closest at
the 1st string - bridge pickup position. Follow the measurement guidelines
from the chart as starting points. The distance will vary according to the amount
of magnetic pull of the pickup.
Intonation (Fine Tuning) Adjustments should be made
after all of the above have been accomplished. Set the pickup selector in the
middle, volume and tone controls to the max. Check tuning. Check each string
at the 12th fret harmonic to fretted note (make sure you are depressing the
string evenly to the fret, not the fingerboard). If sharp, lengthen string by
adjusting the saddle back. If flat, shorten string by moving the saddle
forward. Remember guitars are tempered instruments, retune, play and make
further adjustments as needed. Additional Hints |